Back to Alabama

In hunting camp with family since last Fri. night. Its been a great trip. A nephew harvested a nice 7 pt., my brother a nice 8 pt., I took a 4 & 5 pt., and best of all my dad and I went out together and he harvested a large buck for south Mississippi. It has 14 scoreable points with a live weight at 190 lbs. Needless to say there will be stories told for years to come. The photo is of a Shenandoah National Park resident of Big Meadows. I'll be driving back home tomorrow to catch a few days of deer hunting and then preparing to begin another assignment for the company in the greater Nashville area through spring. This deployment will put me back home on weekends. Thanks for reading and I'll let you know how the next few days in the field turn out.

Home for the Holidays

Back in the Deep South through Jan. 3. Following 3 days in my favorite deer stands I've seen the typical over population of whitetail does and a few immature bucks. Did see the strangest thing yesterday afternoon. A one antler spike buck obviously a 1 1/2 yr old stood on his hind legs in the green field and walked backwards about 10 feet to rub his preorbital gland on a high limb. This is typical pre-rut behavior but the bipedal action was almost surreal. One can enjoy many strange phenomena in the wild! Can you believe 44 does in 3 days? No I did not practice the recommended QDM by harvesting a few. Mainly because I'm just glad to be spending time with the wife and son following 74 days in north VA. Didn't really want to take the time to process the venison. Hunting Mississippi next week. The Verizon aircard service is very limited here at home these days and uploading photos is quite the challenge. This photo was taken the 1st week of Dec. in Shenandoah NP. These youngsters were giving me a show. I understand there is about 12 inches of snow up there today.

World Class

Count down (2) days before leaving Shenandoah National Park. Finally, a "World Class" buck appeared during mid-day on Skyline Drive. The best that I can possibly determine through the magnification process of the limited photos on the PC: 6 x 4 with a split G-2. He has great mass and beam circumference at the base, awesome spread, good brow tines, very long G-2s & G-3s, palmation of the main beam at the G-2s...absolutely the finest buck I've ever seen in over 40 years in the field. I've been involved with captive deer research programs at Mississippi State University and private ranches in east Texas during my undergraduate work, trophy hunted in west Texas, and I watch the Outdoor Channel shows regularly of the over exploited Canadian subspecies of whitetails. This buck is "top shelf" as a National Park icon for the Dept. of Interior. I will not attempt to field score him in fear of underestimating. Make your best Boone and Crocket score and let me know what you think! The photo sequence is in retro-order. With leaves wet and a slight breeze, I followed him to gain the closest possible position for a broadside or frontal photo. He wouldn't have it! After flanking him until I was breathing hard and the wind changed which carried my scent directly to him, he finally had enough and left the country at full speed. What an encounter indeed! I am content that I have seen a buck of a lifetime. Bucks throughout the Park are now gathering in groups, biologists call "bachelor groups." During the same hour I encountered three bucks browsing in a clearing. The largest was certainly another fine buck.

The Sign Says It All.

October 7, 2009 - departed 3:30 a.m. to drive 805 miles to the Best Western of Luray, VA. Duration of this deployment in the contract: (46) days. Writing this on the eve of my departure now (72) days since I've been home. During the first project meeting, weather was discussed by those who have seen the seasons come and go. The term which came up time and again was "unpredictability". This has indeed become evident in review of my daily diaries "for the record": thunder, lightning & hail, days of freezing fog with zero visibility, (3) major snow events, sleet and freezing rain. Almost another month now past the estimated completion date and the contractor has not yet completed Road Rehabilitation Phase I. The shorts and tee shirt I arrived in have not been worn since! In my opinion it appears that the mountain creates its own microclimate. I like it! Talk about an extreme change from my last project in east central Alabama where it was 100 degrees many days in June with high humidity. Trying a diet for the first time I managed to lose 25 pounds in record heat. The contractor has indeed made a diligent effort to pursue the work. The time has come for the winter shutdown also discussed during many weekly progress meetings. The 7" snow event on Dec. 5 has incurred only a few days of above freezing temperatures. The days following with lows near 10F transformed snow into solid ice. In other words, I emailed my project manager in Atlanta, "We're done." I'm headed home for a while to catch up on much needed family and church time, and deer hunting Mississippi and Alabama family properties. Then off to Nashville for a few months before returning to Luray in the spring to finish up. Most of my weekends have involved seeing the sites in Page and Rappahannock Counties. Usually a day in SNP and a day in the Shenandoah Valley. I have blogged before that "the Valley" is one of the most beautiful places I've seen in all the states I've worked. More picturesque than the estuarine ecosystems of south Louisiana, Wildlife Management Areas of Mississippi, huge cotton fields of southwest Georgia, and large expanses of mixed hardwoods and pines of Alabama. Smoke houses, old jeeps, (2) story wooden frame houses with heating oil tanks and stacks of split firewood, fields of corn lined with piled rock fences...all these things I've seen here, this list could go on about the good life in the Shenandoah Valley. To have seen the Valley in all its splendor of fall and dormant state of winter has given me many opportunities to make some photos, now a new hobby, to share with my family. Oh Shenandoah National Park, and meeting the Lord here to renew my spirit! "And seeing the multitudes, He went up on a mountain, and when he was seated His disciples came to Him. Then He opened His mouth and taught them..." Matthew 5:1-2 "He who has ears to hear, let him hear!" Mark 4:9 "When you said 'Seek My face,' my heart said to You, 'Your face, Lord, I will seek'" Psalm 27:8 "For you shall go out with joy, and be led out with peace; the mountains and the hills shall break forth into singing before you, and all the trees of the field shall clap their hands." Isaiah 55:12 NKJV I have also met many who arrived and left years past only to return soon thereafter to establish businesses to support other travelers who came to Shenandoah National Park. The animals are unique. Residing are several whitetail bucks I have become particularly attached to. The buck in the photo I will definitely miss. I call him "the Virginian." On this particular date he appeared very tired, old, underweight, and frankly I've worried about him since. I just hope now since the rut is behind him that he'll work his way down to some of the harvested fields to pick up remnant corn to store energy for the deep of winter of January and February. His face is now grey, gaunt, with hollow eyes, much different from other photos (see blogs Dec. 3rd & 7th). The owls, hawks, and falcons are majestic. The black bears are in apparent hibernation now - only one having been seen since the leaves fell from the canopy of the deciduous hardwood climax community. My hat is off to the Rangers who, through their dedication to the Park, patrol and protect the resident wildlife. Thanks for leading me down Tanner's Ridge Road on my first day on board. So long for now Shenandoah. So long friends I have made on this journey and those who have visited this blog so frequently. Spring will bring splendor to Big Meadows and regrowth on Stoney Man and the Pinnacles. Goodbye and be blessed!

Virginian on the Mountain

Decided to attempt my first video upload made Dec. 7. No special equipment. Just a typical Sony 10.1 megapixel CyberShot camera on maximum zoom used for documenting and emailing conditions or issues involving the project. I've missed some great opportunities for still photos not realizing I had the camera on video. The result was a few seconds not worth saving. I must confess that I have become attached to this buck and will miss seeing him when I leave for home end of this week. You may have recognized him from (2) previous blogs. I'll post one more still shot of him on my final blog from SNP, just to say goodbye.

He Frowns on the Mountain

The Lord works in mysterious ways. I believe He also has a sense of humor. When I ask Him for something to write about all I need to do is just observe the mountain. Reviewing my photo log tonight, it became obvious. You see, I do not believe in coincidence. Although I am educated in the field of biological sciences, "scientific anomalies", systematic sampling, and probabilities, as a Christian I believe the Lord is indeed omnipotent, omniscient, and omnipresent. Therefore, since the Lord is personally involved in my circumstances each day, coincidence does not exist in my life. These photos are of one I have named the "Frowning One". The second was made on November 10. I immediately recognized this buck again this past Thursday. His disposition has not changed in the first photo of December 10. Yes, exactly 30 days and the same hour! This is one of the resident whitetail bucks at SNP which exhibits little concern for visitors. When I stopped, "Frowning One" stepped out onto Skyline Drive just behind my truck. I opened the truck door and walked within ten feet of him for the photograph. After I expressed appreciation for the photo, he turned around and stepped back to the edge covered in snow from December 5 which had become a solid sheet of ice. I observed as he had some degree of difficulty walking as his hooves found little traction. Leaving him to carry on, I drove on thanking God for the encounter. As a result of this day, I am reminded of scripture for all of us who have frowned from periods, or even seasons of unrest. "And do not seek what you should eat or what you should drink, nor have an anxious mind. For all these things the nations of the world seek after, and your Father knows that you need these things. But seek the kingdom of God, and all these things shall be added to you." Luke 12:29-31 NKJV. Dr. Charles Stanley teaches that as followers of Christ, "We can experience peace with God by accepting that He is involved in the daily circumstances of our lives and we may rest in His love and power. Then we will understand the peace of God."

Sleeping In

'Twas the night before Chistmas,

when all through the house

Not a creature was stirring,

not even a mouse.

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,

while visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.

Now, Dasher! now, Dancer! now, Prancer and Vixon!

On, Comet! on Cupid!, on Donder and Blitzen!

12 degrees this morning with a strong wind. The whole neighborhood went back to bed!

Memories of Profiles

Big Meadows offers a very unique opportunity to anyone interested in viewing the full gamut of whitetail deer behavior. Like the old cliche', some days it just all comes together. Or better yet, "It just doesn't get any better than this." My typical lunch hour usually involves some type of wildlife observation in SNP. As I slowly approached the meadow today, 4 bucks were tending a small herd of does on the right-of-way of Skyline Drive. Two young bucks started a sparring match while the 3 1/2 yr. old enjoyed some quiet time with the ladies. The lowland of the meadow held three separate herds of does, totaling about 50 head. Surprisingly, I watched a doe submit to a 1 1/2 year old spike. Then even more amazingly, the 3 1/2 yr. old buck saw this at about 150 yards and covered the distance in a matter of seconds. I honestly thought he was going to mow down the youngster and the doe. At the last second the spike "leapfrogged" and ran for his life. The big eight chased him all the way across the bottom to the east, then returned. Today, I can say that I saw the largest and probably oldest doe in all the years of observing or hunting whitetails. Just this week I asked a resident co-worker when the bucks will be dropping sheds. Down south Alabama its mid to late March. This doe was pot bellied and sway backed, and her head was as large as any mature buck I've seen in the Park. I honestly thought it was a buck that had already dropped antlers. At about 50 feet there was not doubt of her gender. Besides, she had her fawn from last spring at her side. Weather must have played a factor in the activity today. 22 degrees with a strong, bitterly cold wind. Snow has transformed to a sheet of ice. Forecast low in Big Meadows tonight, 9 above. These photos reminded of something from many years past. I remember my kindergarten teacher drawing a profile. Each student sat in front a bright light while she drew the profile above the shoulders on construction paper taped to the wall. Funny how things are long forgotten, and return from the deepest recesses of the human mind on a day such as this. It is written: "Let the little children come to Me, and do not forbid them; for of such is the kingdom of God. And He took them up in His arms, laid His hands on them, and blessed them." Mark 10:13,16 NKJV.

Cabin Fever

While logging the conditions of the project on Tuesday, these photos were obviously made from the truck window. Hopes of rain melting the snow last night faded early this morning when I approached a VDOT truck from the rear spreading aggregate on U.S. 211 and shortly thereafter ice conditions at Thorton Gap entrance station. I would guess about 1/4" accumulation on the trees and roadways which initiated a mandatory closure of Skyline Drive. Although a brief warm-up this afternoon may have started the melting process, it will be shortlived with forecasted lows on the mountain at 10-15F the remainder of the week. Last weekend's snow will likely be covered by the next round Saturday through Tuesday, further pushing back the project schedule. Several weeks of this and "Ol' Big Woods" may actually experience the mountain man "cabin fever." Thank the Lord for cameras, computers, and cell phones. Oh yea, I also thank Him for fried chicken! "A man can do nothing better than to eat and drink and find satisfaction in his work. This too, I see, is from the hand of God." Ecclesiates 2:24 (NIV)

Day of the Cats

Talk about a flashback yesterday to the "Lord of the Rings" marathon this past Sunday, I had to ask myself if I was dreaming. This must be what Park staff meant in a brief meeting early Monday by "enter at your own risk!" Today the road at the entrance of the tunnel was lined with fifty pound chunks of ice which had fallen from the ledge above. Can you imagine what these would do to a windshield (& the driver)? The Park is expecting sleet changing to rain tonight with the possibility of 2". This event coupled with last Saturday's 6" of snow accumulation will probably result in some flooding. In my career, I never thought I would state this: We need rain so the contractor can go back to work! Rain should melt the snow to give the crew an opportunity to pick up where they left off last Friday. Long term forecast? Snow Saturday and Sunday. More snow probable next week. Loose ends remain that have to be tied up before the winter shutdown. We have to catch the windows of opportunity.

Tuesday has been the "Day of the Cats". Just recently I commented that I had not seen any bobcats or coyotes in SNP. During the early morning drive I encountered a small bobcat on Skyline Drive that jumped up on the cultural stone wall to take a quick look back. It disappeared in a split second. During lunch I noticed another cat near Big Meadows on "the Line". Camera ready, this one turned out to be a feral house cat. I abandoned the photo attempt thinking it was a "left behind" from last fall at "tent city". Then, it disappeared just as quickly as the bobcat. I've seen plenty of these around home. Several years past my wife was feeding (18) barn cats so wild that I had to catch them in a dip net and hold them with welding gloves for the vet to give their annual vaccinations. I've still got scars to prove it! During the early 90s, a "varmint" was getting into the trash can. By the teeth marks I expected a large racoon. The Hav-a-hart live trap revealed the meanest, loudest screaming, and foul smelling black feral tomcat in the world. It truly weighed about 15 pounds. I promptly transplanted him to Bayou Liberty Swamp in St. Tammany Parish, Louisiana, where it probably is living out (9) lives even today. Back to lunch time, on the drive back through I noticed the feral cat again and managed to get a "mugshot." Feral cats have been determined in studies across the globe to cause extremely negative impacts to environmentally sensitive ecosystems such as Shenandoah NP. Feral cats are very efficient predators and do not occupy a niche in the environment. They will adversely affect the food web through competition with indigenous raptors, and mammalian and reptilian carnivores. I plan to forward the photo to Park biologists. Ironically, a fawn whitetail was browsing on the right-of-way early this morning with its right ear in shreds. Cats usually attack their prey in the region of the head. Canines such as coyotes or wolves will attack the rear flank. The snow must have given a larger bobcat an edge, but a futile attempt in the end. Upon arrival to the Park back in early October I asked a Ranger about the number cougar sightings in recent years as the mountain range with an existing over-population of whitetail deer would likely house a big cat. His response was typical of State and Federal agents I have worked with in the past, "We do not acknowledge the existence of panthers in the Park." I'll blog some time at a later date for the reason this response is "so rehearsed" and also of personal experiences and those of family sportsmen on the subject of "big cats."

Tired and Haggard

The Skyline Drive "hotline" recording stated no access for the entire length of SNP. I met the contractor at the locked gates and waited for updates. A Ranger supervisor arrived to advise that plows were working but entry would be "at our own risk" and gates were to remain locked behind us. Without a 4x4 I opted to wait until mid-day. In my Dec. 3 posting I stated that it would be a blessing to see "the Virginian" again before I leave for the winter shut-down. The project will not be completed. At some point in the near future, the contractor will say he's done all he can on the mountain until spring. On the sloooooow drive in crossing patches of ice I was astounded at the length of the icicles hanging from the rocks. I'll post them later. Although the Pinnacles Overlook appeared to be totally iced over I eased in just for a quick look at the snow on the mountains. To my complete amazement, up walked the Virginian along the edge of the cultural stone wall adjacent to the overlook. Again, he exhibited no fear of my truck parked nearby. The buck was totally engrossed in browsing on dead grass at the edge of the wall. As he lowered his head I left the truck and crawled up the wall. He appeared haggard, tired, and underweight now from the recent rut. At extremely close proximity to him (in reality too close to any wild animal and I would never advise it), I noticed just how "grey" in the face the Virginian appeared. I crawled away just as quietly and left the ol' timer to continue browsing. Large and small bucks were on the move mid-day. Another buck with a greater spread width was not so accommodating for a photo. Only a fleeting photo of this one running over the crest of the steep embankment. The rack was well outside the ears. Several spikes posed in the snow for a quick picture from the truck window. One doe was drinking the runoff at the edge of Skyline pavement. Snow not melting and only a trickle along the roadside for a drink. The deep of winter yet to arrive at Shenandoah NP is very taxing on the older animals. Any injuries sustained during the rut is costly as well. The Virginian appeared to have held his dominant status for yet another year.

Valley Snow

Quarter size snow flakes continue to fall at the time of this posting. Those of us residing in the deep south do not often see the beauty of landscapes altered, or should I say, enhanced by snow. I am particularly fond of old farms, especially those handed down through generations and still involved in agriculture or livestock production. The Shenandoah Valley has some of the most beautiful farms in America. I plan later in life, perhaps in my retirement years to rotate cattle on a few pastures at home. The key is "home", that is...being there on a regular basis! I am deeply saddened to find the "absolute auction" signs on farms in every state where I have worked. Having an appreciation of the years of continuous work to maintain farms, I can only imagine the devastation in losing land owned for decades. Snow accumulation reached about 4" in the valley. An attempt was made to reach the Thornton Gap entrance of SNP. Not expecting visitors to be allowed to enter the park I wanted to photograph the area of the Panorama. About (2) miles up the mountain past Park HQ I realized I had probably made a mistake as ice patches became more numerous and no place to turn around. Not having a 4x4, engaging the positive traction rear differential on the F-150 enabled me to reach the top and very cautiously make a u-turn in 7" of snow. The drive to the entrance station had not been plowed and the Park was closed. Shenandoah State Park was my next destination. Voted "Best in America", I was surprised to find the roadways plowed and open. The view of the Shenandoah River from the newly constructed wooden deck overlook was breathtaking. I watched a couple placing a canoe in the River during heavy snow. Diehards! I've just got to hand it to them. The view from the water was probably picturesque.

Full Moon Midday Movement

Last time I saw a sky similar to this at sunrise in SNP, next day brought thunder and hail. Forecast noted in the last half hour for the Shenandoah Valley for tomorrow is 80% chance of snow 2-4" accumulation possible with a high in the mid 30s. Wildlife typically change their circadian rhythm or diurnal cycle during full moon phases. During my lunch break today, I drove to Big Meadows hoping to see movement which can occur as a result of the full moon. In a 30 minute period I encountered around 30 does, 4 bucks (one photo inset), and a very large black bear. A young 4 pt. buck ran quickly across Skyline Drive and several seconds later the bear loped across about 50 yards down the road. I expect the bear was on the move midday and just spooked the buck nearby.

The Virginian

This is obviously a fine specimen of a whitetail buck which has been around SNP for a long time. He exhibits no concern for passers-by. The top photo was taken November 2 which shows yellow staining of the antlers and head as a result of rubbing behavior. Zooming in one can see the antler burrs filled with bark and yellow cambium. Tree shavings rest in the hair of the forehead. The open mouth? Chewing acorns abundant at this location on Skyline Drive. Happened to catch him out on "the Line" again on November 19 in the same general vicinity. We don't see many mature bucks like this in "LA"..lower Alabama. Seeing him just one more occassion before I wrap up my work in the Park would be a blessing! If not, I'll remember him as "the Virginian."

Owl Horseback

Making a very long drive down to milepost 89 in SNP today, this barred owl allowed me to stop the truck and approach within (10) feet, almost at eye level. It is perched on a "horse crossing" sign. I don't think it was hungry enough to "eat a horse"! I like the raptors. The Park has a strong population of falcons, hawks, and owls which probably indicates an even stronger population of rodents. Following a brief photo shoot I actually resorted to talking to this very cool bird. Why not? I honestly don't think there was another soul within (20) miles! Owls have some very specialized features. They are typically nocturnal with very large eyes. All birds are thought to see color even in the spectrum not seen by humans. Owl primary wing feathers are "fimbriate", or lined with specially shaped fringe endings which dampen the noise typically heard in other birds. As a very efficient predator the barred owl can fly silently to capture its prey. I remain amazed each passing day at the difference in the behavior of the wildlife within Shenandoah boundaries. I have noted, however, that whitetail deer seem somewhat more wild in the area south of Swift Run Gap. Perhaps poaching is more prevalent in that area. Wildlife will respond to stressors placed on their populations. Note the "bluebird sky" in the background, a contrast from yesterday's sleet storm in the area of Thornton Gap.